How does nut grass propagation

Nutsedges can be distinguished from grasses by their stems, which are triangular or V-shaped in cross-section, while grass stems are hollow and round. Their leaves are thicker and stiffer than most grasses and are arranged in groups of three at the base. Nutsedge leaves appear creased with prominent mid-veins.

Purple nutsedge Cyperus rotundus has a purple seedhead. Most nutsedges are perennials whose leaves die back in the fall when temperatures decrease. The tubers and rhizomes can grow eight to 14 inches below the soil surface. Nutsedges thrive in almost any kind of soil. While they prefer moist soil, established nutsedge plants will thrive even in dry soil.

They spread by small tubers, by creeping rhizomes, or by seed. New tubers begin forming four to six weeks after a new shoot emerges. Individual nutsedge plants may eventually form patches 10 feet or more in diameter.

Purple nutsedge Cyperus rotundus and yellow nutsedge Cyperus esculentus are the most common nutsedges in South Carolina. Yellow nutsedge is more widespread than purple nutsedge due to its greater cold tolerance. However, where purple nutsedge is adapted, it can be even more vigorous than yellow nutsedge.

The two species often grow together. Because purple and yellow nutsedges differ in herbicide susceptibility, correct identification is critical to successful control. A combination of cultural, mechanical, and chemical control methods has the best chance of effectively managing nutsedge. Cultural Control: Nutsedges thrive in moist areas, and their presence often indicates that drainage is poor, irrigation is too frequent, or sprinklers are leaky.

However, once established, they will tolerate normal moisture levels or even drought. Nutsedge tubers are spread by cultivation and introduced in topsoil and nursery stock. They can persist in the soil for years. Learn to recognize nutsedge to avoid accidentally bringing it in on newly purchased sod, topsoil, or plants. Be sure to thoroughly clean tools and equipment such as tillers that have been used in an infested area to avoid spreading tubers and rhizome pieces.

Give turfgrasses a competitive advantage by following all recommended practices for the lawn species, including mowing at the ideal height, applying fertilizer at the proper rate and time, and maintaining the ideal soil pH. Proper irrigation rate and timing are especially important since excessively moist soil will encourage the growth of nutsedge. It is best to water established lawns deeply but infrequently, which allows the surface soil to become dry between water applications.

Monitor and manage insect and disease infestations to avoid thin, bare areas that may be overtaken by nutsedge. Mechanical Control: It is possible to eliminate very small patches of nutsedge by digging.

Dig at least 10 inches deep and at least eight to ten inches beyond the diameter of the aboveground leafy portion of the plant. This will ensure the removal of the spreading tubers. This is best done early in the spring before more tubers are produced.

Chemical Control: Nutsedges can be controlled chemically with postemergence herbicides. Because different herbicides are effective against different species, it is important to correctly identify the nutsedge to be controlled.

Herbicides also vary regarding the desirable plants they can be safely used around without causing damage. Always check the label to make sure the pesticide you choose will not damage desired plants.

Apply herbicides when nutsedge is actively growing in warm conditions with adequate soil moisture. Water the lawn the day before spraying to help protect the turfgrass and to assure that the weeds are actively growing so they will better take up the herbicide.

Applications during droughty conditions or when the nutsedge is not actively growing may result in poor control. Follow the instructions on the product label for the most effective application rate and procedure.

Avoid mowing before a postemergence herbicide application to allow for adequate foliage to absorb the herbicide spray. Also, avoid mowing for two days after application to allow enough time for the plant to absorb and move the herbicide down to the tubers. The length of time to allow before and after mowing varies with the product. Always read the label for specific instructions.

Augustinegrass, and other turfgrasses. It should not be applied to any newly seeded or newly sprigged turf until after it is well established. Rainfall or sprinkler irrigation within eight hours of application may reduce the effectiveness. Make a second application 7 to 10 days later. These basagran products may require the use of an oil concentrate such as Southern Ag Herbi-Oil Spray Adjuvant added to the sprayer at 5 teaspoons per gallon for best control.

Imazaquin: Imazaquin the active ingredient in Image Nutsedge Killer is recommended for use on centipedegrass, zoysiagrass, St. Augustinegrass, and bermudagrass lawns. Repeat application may be necessary in 3 to 5 weeks for complete control.

Do not apply Image Nutsedge Killer to newly seeded or newly sprigged turf, and do not apply during periods of slow growth. The small shoots on the right have drawn down underground reserves to their low point, whereas the larger plant to the left has already begun to rebuild below-ground biomass.

Be aware that tillage, especially rotary tillage, can spread a localized infestation by moving tubers around in the soil. This is particularly true when the soil is wet and liable to cling to tines or plowshares, thereby facilitating long-distance transport of tubers. Whenever practical, till or cultivate for nutsedge control when the soil is dry enough to leave implement tines clean Russ and Burgess, To be safe, powerwash or otherwise clean the implement before leaving an infested field.

Use a field cultivator or similar implement to bring rhizomes and tubers to the surface, thereby exposing them to desiccation or freezing. Several passes during dry weather can significantly reduce the population Tumbleson and Kommedahl, ; Mohler and DiTommaso, unpublished.

Control nutsedge that emerges in crops by cultivating whenever emerging weeds have 3—6 leaves. Till promptly after a spring vegetable harvest or immediately prior to a midsummer vegetable planting to knock the weed back before it can propagate.

In very hot and sunny climates such as the desert southwest region of the United States, soil solarization during late June to early August when solar radiation and temperatures are near maximum can significantly reduce a nutsedge infestation.

In Florida, solarization with clear plastic does not kill most purple nutsedge tubers; however, it causes daily pulses of high temperature that break tuber dormancy. Tubers are gradually weakened when emerging shoots open under the clear film, become trapped, and are heat-killed Chase et al. Because tuber dormancy is a major factor in nutsedge persistence, solarization can be an important component of the control strategy.

Till or cultivate to remove existing nutsedge top growth, stimulate additional tuber sprouting, and prepare a smooth surface. Lay clear or translucent plastic film, and leave in place for 3—6 weeks during late June through early August when solar radiation and air temperatures are near their maximum. To ensure effective heating of the soil profile, be sure the soil is moist—irrigate before laying plastic if necessary—and the film fits tightly and evenly over the soil surface.

After solarization, cultivate to remove emerging nutsedge regrowth when it reaches the 3—6 leaf stage. Exploit the two weaknesses of nutsedges: their short stature and shade intolerance.

Design crop rotations and production systems to maximize crop competition against weeds during the frost-free growing season. Choose vigorous, adapted varieties of heavy-canopy crops like potato, bush bean, and sweet potato; and tall crops like sweet corn or trellised tomato. Choose optimum planting dates so that crops are not subjected to growth-retarding cold or other stresses. Use crop row spacing and orientation that promotes canopy closure except for crops in which this would increase the risk of fungal diseases , or effective shading of alleys.

Similarly, disrupt the onset of tuber production in late summer, either by providing heavy shade such as snap bean or sweet potato at full vegetative growth , or through tillage after a midsummer vegetable harvest. Follow spring vegetables with an aggressive, fast-growing, summer cover crop that will shade out emerging nutsedge. Use optimal seeding rates and methods to maximize cover crop weed suppression.

Buckwheat closes canopy rapidly and can provide excellent weed suppression during brief 30—50 day fallow periods in frost-free, moderately warm weather. For longer fallow or hotter conditions, combine a tall grass sudangrass, sorghum-sudangrass hybrid, or pearl millet with a heavy-canopy summer legume cowpea, forage soybean, velvetbean, or lablab bean for maximum competition.

In fields with nutsedge populations too heavy to allow successful production of summer vegetables, grow high biomass summer cover crops and follow with cool-season vegetables in fall, winter, or early spring, when nutsedge is dormant. No-till methods of terminating cover crops can enhance soil quality and suppress annual weeds; however, this technique should not be attempted until nutsedge has been eliminated from the field.

The allelopathic potential of rye, sorghum-sudangrass, and sweet potato may contribute to nutsedge suppression and should be considered in designing the rotation. However, do not rely on allelopathy alone to control these weeds. Use slow-release organic fertilizers and in-row drip irrigation to deliver moisture and nutrients preferentially to the crop. Sidedress faster-release N materials to heavy feeders when the crops are established and entering their rapid growth phase. Avoid overapplying N and overwatering.

Rotate crops that require frequent irrigation to maintain high soil water potential with crops that thrive in drier conditions.

If root-knot nematodes or other pest nematodes for which nutsedge can be a host are present, it is especially important to reduce nutsedge populations to low levels before attempting production of susceptible crops. Nutsedges do not suffer ill effects from the nematode Schroeder et al. Building soil organic matter and soil life diversity can help combat pest nematodes. Consider using swine, hens, or weeder geese to consume nutsedge. Laying hens confined in small fenced areas up to 50 ft by 50 ft for one chicken coop or chicken tractor at densities equivalent to birds per acre have been reported to clean up a heavy nutsedge infestation in one season.

Weeder geese at 8 to 16 birds per acre have significantly reduced nutsedge competition in cotton Mayton et al. Swine will root out and consume nutsedge tubers Ohio State University , and hogs have been reported to remove purple nutsedge tubers from a 2.

Remember that USDA certified organic production requires at least a day interval between incorporation of livestock or poultry manure and harvest of any food crops that might have exposure to soil or soil splash; and a day interval for food crops not exposed to soil, such as tree fruit and sweet corn. Remove livestock, poultry, or geese from the field and incorporate droppings at the suitable time prior to organic food crop production to protect food safety and meet USDA Organic requirements.

A good time to use livestock or poultry for nutsedge control is immediately after cash crop harvest and before planting a cover crop. Mowing is less effective against nutsedge than tillage and cultivation, yet it may be warranted where tillage is not practical, such as in alleys between trellised tomato rows.

Cut top growth as close to the ground as possible with a push mower or weed whacker. Mow before tuber set mid-late summer , and repeat as needed to keep the weed from propagating. Mulching is generally ineffective against nutsedge. Do not use opaque synthetic mulch in fields with moderate to high nutsedge populations.

In addition to causing yield losses, nutsedge growing through plastic film or landscape fabrics can complicate end-of-season plastic removal.

None of the above measures alone will bring a significant nutsedge problem under control. Use a multi-component, integrated strategy. For example, follow an early vegetable harvest with one or more tillage passes to disrupt emerging nutsedge, solarize in June or July, then follow with an aggressive summer cover crop. When nutsedge populations decline sufficiently to allow summer vegetable production, combine vigorous, locally-adapted varieties with best management of water, nutrients, and pest nematodes, as well as timely cultivation to maximize the crop's advantage over nutsedge.

This is an eOrganic article and was reviewed for compliance with National Organic Program regulations by members of the eOrganic community. Always check with your organic certification agency before adopting new practices or using new materials. A long-lived grass-like plant usually growing cm tall.

It produces a network of creeping underground stems with small tubers mm long. Its upright flowering stems are smooth and three-angled in cross-section its very narrow leaves 7. Its seed-heads have branches of varying in length up to 10 cm long and are subtended by two to four green leafy bracts. These branches bear several elongated reddish-brown or purplish-brown flower spikelets mm long and Widely naturalised and common in south-eastern Queensland.

Widely naturalised in many other parts of Australia i. A very troublesome weed of crops, orchards, vineyards, fallows, lawns, footpaths, gardens, parks, pastures, waste areas and disturbed sites.

A long-lived i. It produces creeping underground stems i. This weed has creeping underground stems i. These tubers are white on the inside when young and become reddish brown as they mature. The flowering stems are upright i. The very narrow i. These leaves 7.